FAQs

  1. HOW FAR DO I NEED TO STRIP THE SHELL DOWN?

All mechanical parts must be removed, together with any rubber components you wish to re-use. Any aluminium or diecast parts, for example locks and hinges, must be removed. Only steel parts can be processed through our oven. Any doors and panel work must be removed from the body shell as these will be processed separately to ensure we are removing all contamination and corrosion. Please note, we do not accept responsibility for damage to non-steel parts which have not been removed from your shell, it is your responsibility to ensure that these have been taken off prior to bringing your shell in.

  1. HOW IS MY SHELL UNLOADED?

We can unload your vehicle or trailer by hand or by forklift on arrival. We require your shell to arrive on a pallet as we do not lift shells with a forklift directly to ensure no damage is caused. Shells are then mounted onto a trolley so they can be moved around the workshop with ease.

  1. DOES THE THERMAL PROCESS DISTORT MY SHELL OR CHASSIS?

Not at all! Our pyrolysis oven is specifically designed for this process. The process applies heat indirectly and uniformly across the whole oven, following a gentle and steady heating and cooling cycle to ensure there is no danger of warpage, twisting or distortion to your shell. This is not a quick heat up and cool down, we do this slowly and gradually to ensure the metal can expand and contract in a controlled manner to avoid damage. Far less intrusive and harsh than other methods such as blasting.

  1. WILL MY SHELL HAVE ACID BLEED?

Probably the most common question asked! Chemical bleed occurs when shells are chemically stripped (using harsh and strong chemical blends) to remove the paint and coatings. We DO NOT chemically strip your shell! All coatings are removed thermally! On removal from our oven, they are washed off and submerged in our chemical de-rust tank, which unlike a chemical stripping tank, is a gentle solution to remove all rust and corrosion (this is the longest stage of our process because we don’t want to cover your shell in harsh chemicals. On removal, the shell is then submerged into our neutralising tank to ensure any chemical residue is fully neutralised, so there is no chance of acid bleed from seams etc. The shell is then treated to a hot phosphate treatment which may leave a slight white residue on the shell – this is nothing to worry about and can be coated over with no adverse effects.

  1. WHAT ABOUT LEAD LOADING ON MY SHELL OR ZINTEC STEEL?

As our process is thermal, any lead loading present will be removed. Zintec coated steel is not affected by the process and remains to provide a protective finish.

  1. I NEED TO REPAIR AND WELD THE SHELL BEFORE IT IS PRIMED, CAN I TAKE IT AWAY MID PROCESS AND RETURN?

As our process operated in specific stages, if required you can take your shell following the chemical de-rust stage and perform any repair work necessary. This provides you with a clean surface to weld and repair and allows you to see the ares which are in need of attention. Once you are happy with it, the shell can be returned to us for completion. The shell will flash rust whilst your repair works are carried out, please do not use any chemicals or oils to try and prevent this as this may mean the shell needs a full reprocess on its return, instead, allow us to treat the flash rust (it is our speciality after all!) and give it our Korroprime finish, leaving the shell ready for top coat.

  1. CAN I WELD THROUGH A PHOSPHATE FINISH?

Yes. Phosphated surfaces do not produce any adverse fumes or gasses when welded, unlike zinc for example.

  1. WHAT IS THE KORROPRIME YOU USE AND HOW IS IT APPLIED?

Our Korroprime is applied as a powder electrostatically then cured in our powder-coating oven, which means it gives fuller coverage than wet spray as the powder is able to reach into the hard to reach areas where wet spray would miss (inside box sections and seams for example). It is salt spray tested, architectural standard primer and is highly comprehensive in terms of coverage, and is very tough when cured, offering excellent protection against corrosion. It is advised to lightly abrade the surface before applying further coats of paint or primer. 

  1. CAN I WELD THROUGH THE KORROPRIME?

No, our Korroprime is not a weld through primer and we would advise taking your shell after stage two to complete the repair works and then return for priming.

  1. HOW LONG GOES THE PROCESS TAKE?

We allow ourselves 7-10 days to complete your shell. We cannot and will not rush the process for you as this will not allow for the time to process the shell to our high standards. We will discuss this with you further if necessary when you bring in the shell. If you have booked for the full 3 stage process and then we notice significant rust / corrosion, we will contact you to discuss this before priming as you may need to complete your repairs first.